Monday, May 19

Albania was the last of the European countries to shed communist rule (April 1991). The dictator, Enver Hoxha, was the ruler from 1944 until his death in 1985. Communism in Albania is more aptly compared to North Korea than to the other Soviet Block countries due to the fear, paranoia, propaganda, and harsh conditions that prevailed during the 20th century. Our guide, Mario, shared with us that his father was imprisoned for one month (a light sentence because his grandfather had connections) for listening to a foreign radio station in the late 70’s.

The architecture of Tirana, the capital city, is diverse and haphazard with no city planning - brutalist and modern, high rises and mosques, historic buildings and city squares, restaurants, bars, and shops all mixed together in a bustling metropolis of a million or so people.

Mother Theresa was Albanian

Pomegranate

State flag: double-headed eagle

Walk signals are the state flag!

Former USSR Embassy

Enver Hoxha's house

Judicial building

During the Cold War, Enver Hoxha was so paranoid, he had 173,000 bunkers built all over Albania. They can be seen throughout the city. This small one would fit 4 people:

This “pyramid” was built by Enver Hoxha’s daughter as an art gallery. We walked to the top and had another lovely view of the city.

Et’hem Bey Mosque (built from 1789-18823): This mosque is unique in that is has elaborately painted frescoes depicting natural features (waterfalls, trees etc.)

More city scenes:

Statue of 15th C. National Hero: Skanderberg

A building opposite the statue resembling his face!

This building has the map of Albania designed into it!

Whirling Dervishes! While we didn’t actually see any whirling, we did visit the Bektashi World Center, which is home to this sect of Sufi Islam. They are a very open, welcoming, and liberal order who are known for their religious tolerance. We met a young man from the sect who showed us through their museum and the mosque where they pray. This center was restored in 2015.

Museum entrance

What the interior of the "Baba's" quarters would look like

The Koran

We had lunch with Besnik Mustafaj (a previous Foreign Minister of Albania and Ambassador to France), where we got to hear his thoughts on the political history and current political climate here.

Appetizer plate

MiG Women’s Museum: This little museum is in an apartment and is run by a woman who is an activist and committed to telling the story of Albanian history through the stories of its women. We were shown the exhibits by her son, who grew up in the apartment before it was turned into a museum. Many of the items in it are his family’s treasures!